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Biederman trucks

Posted By mandator Tuesday, November 22, 2011 2:08 PM
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MP&C
 Posted Monday, March 14, 2016 6:57 AM
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Not my video, but here is one that shows the Erco 1447 shrinker in action, use the shrink on a flange of an angle and it will give you a curve along that angle.. For shrinking the two outside legs of a u channel you would need the dies shown in this video that protrude outward from the machine to accommodate that flange without interference.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U3a8-8OX6Hs







To show how tight of a radius they are capable of, here are some test samples I did after I first got the Erco:








These samples were using 18 ga cold rolled steel, about a 4" long piece with 1" flanges. The first result shown is after about 4 passes on the stretching jaws, with a close up to show the "finish" result.











Shown against a roll of tape to compare the radius size we've accomplished..





Here's a closer shot to show the stippling on the shrinker jaw....





.....and the shrinking sample....











These Lancasters are what it replaced....










Warning, these are not cheap, and if you only need a couple shrinks done on a one time basis, find someone who has one. These sell in the 4 figure range, price dependent on quality and type of dies included.
Monday, March 14, 2016 7:13 AM by MP&C
Bruce Ohnstad
 Posted Monday, March 14, 2016 5:59 AM
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Great work, MP&C,

What is the kick in "kick shrinker"? I have heard of planishing hammers that can shrink metal, but I have a hard time understanding how it works. Do these shrinking techniques raise ripples that take up area?

I'm needing to curve some sheet metal U channels with the web on the outside diameter. If I can shrink the flange edges it would bend the channel. I'm thinking of buying a planishing hammer but I'll need some advice.

Bruce


1932 White 643 restored in the working museum
MP&C
 Posted Saturday, March 12, 2016 2:05 PM
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Today we got the second inner fender cut out, and took them both over for a test fit on the truck








The driver's side has a bolting plate in the middle of the frame for the steering box, so a relief notch was in order... This didn't show on the original as that part had long rusted off..





....as well as a bit of trimming for some clearance so that the paint won't be chipped off on the first test drive. The fabrication of these parts are done, and we should pick up the new Tommasini Wheeling Machine this coming weekend so we can get started on the fender patches..








roKWiz
 Posted Friday, March 11, 2016 12:37 PM
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Nice work your doing.

www.stonemasoncarver.com/Kenworthrestoration

In order that the labour of centuries past may not be in vain during the centuries to come...............Denis Diderot 1752

Cam
 Posted Friday, March 11, 2016 7:38 AM
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Wonderful work. But time consuming. Years ago I sold an NOS set of LT Mack fenders for something like $3,000 or $3,500. All the hours of work that go into resurrecting a used set of fenders certainly helps explain that price. And even those fenders needed fitting to the truck and work around the edges to be perfect.
Friday, March 11, 2016 7:39 AM by Cam
MP&C
 Posted Thursday, March 10, 2016 3:15 PM
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Tonight in the shop we started work on John's front fenders for the 1947 Biederman Truck, seen here for reference:



The fenders are made using 16 gauge steel, so this may be a bit challenging when we get to blocking and wheeling patches for the fenders themselves. In the meantime (while still waiting for the new English wheel) let's get started on the inner fenders. The driver's side is the worst, with so much rotted away that we couldn't get accurate dimensions. The passenger side was in much better condition, but just shy of 70 years has taken its toll in adding some wavy distortion. So we'll remake both sides for a better match.



In order to get a more crisp bend on the 16 gauge steel, we used a tipping die in the Lennox to thin the metal at the line of the bend.







Bending in the Baileigh Magnetic Brake..









This detail shot shows how the thinning helps get a tighter bend..



Next, we needed a profile template for the rear radius, so the kick shrinker is used on a folded 19 gauge strip to add the radius..





A flat folded strip works better than an angle as if you shrink too far in this direction.....



......you can simply shrink the back half to reverse the effect without the need for changing to the stretching die..



Now with an accurate pattern, we can use the template on the new inner fender..





All trimmed...





With the new clamped to the old, we can see what the years of abuse has done..



One down, one to go..
MP&C
 Posted Tuesday, December 29, 2015 5:08 AM
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Some pictures of John's fenders to show the work that will be needed..









The inner fenders are 14 ga, here the drivers side has seen better days.









The passenger is in much better shape, but given the simplicity of the bend, two new ones will cure all of the wavy metal and pitting issues..









On the main part of the fenders we're dealing with 16 ga steel, and given that some of the attaching parts are missing, the ends have been split, bent, and are rusty, we'll form up new repair sections approx. 6" long and replace the ends, salvaging the existing wiring on the opening..









Should get started on these in a couple weeks..
jovan
 Posted Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:34 PM
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Well it is moving slow, but the cab is installed. The next step is to install the transmission and the rest of the drive line. Most of the cab parts are finished but just need to be installed. This is the fun part. I wish I had a month undisturbed, to put it together. It has been a crazy summer. Building a wiring harness will take some time. Probably the biggest challenge remaining. This truck will be in Lexington.
 IMG_20151022_134930461_HDR.jpg (270 views, 3.71 MB)
 IMG_20151022_144332647 (002).jpg (244 views, 4.12 MB)
 IMG_20151022_145616455 (002).jpg (236 views, 4.16 MB)
Cam
 Posted Monday, June 15, 2015 7:27 AM
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I painted the cab of my restoration project on a jig, and both the painters and I liked that a LOT. I might suggest dressing as much of the cab as you can while its on that jig before reinstalling it. It looks amazing, by the way! I had all the dash electrical, glass, cab lights, horns, some of the interior, etc. all in before plunking it back on. You are going to be in and out of that cab 1,000 times before its done. You'd like to do as much of that as possible without climbing up into it.
RICKY352PETES
 Posted Friday, June 12, 2015 4:15 PM
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Keep up the good work John it's looking good :cool:.

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