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Building A truck starter, Battery charger, power supply,

Posted By peterj Thursday, January 28, 2010 12:33 AM
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peterj
 Posted Thursday, January 28, 2010 12:33 AM
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IntroThis is the story of my winter project..

 

This started out as something to build out of stuff I had ,

as a low buck build..

 

Read how this became a Government project, with

MASSIVE cost overruns, redesign, add ons, etc...

and became out of control...

 


peterj 

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Sunday, June 13, 2010 5:17 AM by Eddy Lucast moderator
peterj
 Posted Thursday, January 28, 2010 1:05 AM
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Chapter 1

The plan

 

I'd seen on the web, a bracket to install a delco alt

on a small gas engine.. I had a couple of old alt  in

the shed so all I needed was a cheep engine. I found

one at Northern Tool on sale ,$149.

 

Note;$$$- this sign will show were the cost goes out

of control

 

I ordered one and ordered the bracket from the web.

The engine ended up costing $180( shipping)..$$$

The bracket was only about $20 , raw.. Then you need

pulleys, and a belt...  $$$

The plan was to mount this on the back of the mack,

and could be used it charge batteries and to jump start

other trucks, etc.. It could also be used to fast charge RV

 batteries.. Also by adding some batteries, and an inverter

I could have 120V.  I had some old batteries, and 2 old

inverters in the shed.. Shouldn't cost that much...lol

 


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Sunday, June 13, 2010 5:17 AM by Eddy Lucast moderator
peterj
 Posted Thursday, January 28, 2010 1:20 AM
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Chapter 2The engine arrives

This is what I started with,

 



 



This is a 6hp, cheep clone of a honda.

What's the first thing when you get something new?

Take it apart! I couldn't have a blue engine on a red

truck...



 



 

painted the pieces



 


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Sunday, June 13, 2010 5:15 AM by Eddy Lucast moderator
peterj
 Posted Thursday, January 28, 2010 4:34 AM
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Chapter 2

Starting the build

After painting it's time to start building. First reassemble..

 

 

 

I wanted to quiet this gen, and build a cover (box) around it. To Keep the vibration down I got some isolators to mount this to the deck. I got these from mack, I don't know what they were for.

 

The steel pieces mount to the engine, and then the isolators go between  them and the deck. The white ,is a dense foam with rubber washers under the steel.

 

now we start the assembly. gen mount first..

 

 then the first mock up

this was with an old alt from the shed, and a 4in pulley. The alt didn't work, and I needed a larger drive pulley. One of the things I wanted this unit to do, was to be able to run slow when I didn't need full power. I got a new $$$ alt that was 100A, and a 5in pulley.

 the pulley on the alt was a 3/8 automotive, the pulley on the engine was an industrial A, 1/2in.  I bought a 1/2 pulley for the alt. $$$

 

next chapter, exhaust

 

 

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junkmandan
 Posted Thursday, January 28, 2010 5:09 AM
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Peter-----You may know that the popular commercial Start All units use generators ,either 2 or 4 small frame 30/35 amp size . I once had thoughts of making one with 50 amp big frame new take offs from various DD power units . I should still have 'em if you need 'em . There's gotta be a reason Start All does'nt use alternators on their units .
peterj
 Posted Thursday, January 28, 2010 5:17 AM
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Dan, alt don't like to work with out batteries connected. Majic smoke comes out...lol

I'm going to have this connected to batteries. Allso they don't put out full amps for long periods.. smoke again..

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peterj
 Posted Thursday, January 28, 2010 8:46 AM
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Chapter 3Exhaust

 

Putting this unit in a box, and trying to quiet it, I

needed to do something with the exhaust. I first

thought that the motor would have a threaded

exhaust, like briggs & sratton. I pulled the muffler

and pipe off, no luck.. The port was not threaded,

it wasn't even round. D shaped. I looked around to

find a flange that I could weld a new pipe too. I

didn't want to cut my muffler up till I found

something that would work..  No parts for the chinese

clones. A new muffler for a honda was $80.. no way!!!

 

After measuring the space I had for the unit in the box,

I found out I could leave the muffler on, but still needed

to route the exhaust out of the box.I took the heat shield

off and there were 2 exhaust ports out of the muffler

covered with screen. I poped the screens out, and the

holes would be close to 1/2 in pipe size. I went to Lowes

and got a bag of fittings, and 1 long elbow of 3/4 in elec

conduit. Then I needed to find some 1 in flex pipe.

 

I called all over, no one had 1 in.. Napa listed it but you

had to buy a 25 ft roll. Called all the napas in an

increasing circle.. 40 mi away a store had some. Road

trip.When I got there , talking to one of the owners, he

bought the roll to put on his gen to quiet it.  lol

 

Put the mess togather and needed to weld the thing to

the muffler.

I'm not good at welding, and realy bad at thin stuff..

After welding and burning holes, (half was thick, and

half was real thin) I got out the JB to seal it. lol I cut

the heat shield to fit over the pipes and painted it.

Doesn't look to bad and the JB held.





The next thing I had to add a brace at the top of

the alt bracket. Too much flex and vibration.



 added a brace to the exhaust at the flex

 

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Sunday, June 13, 2010 5:14 AM by Eddy Lucast moderator
peterj
 Posted Thursday, January 28, 2010 2:50 PM
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Chapter 4Road test

 

I took it outside for a test. Hooked it up to the old fuel tank

( I have a large tank mounted on the truck) and fired it up.

 



 

it ran good..tested the muffler with the heat gun.. 450-500

deg..

I thought that was a little hot, as it's going to be close in

the box.

I built a cover for it (the muffler and factory heat shield)

out of 22ga steel and put hushmat on top.  Couldn't read

it with the heat gun , but you could put your hand on it..

ran it for over 30 min, fast and slow..



 

With all the exhaust, it was real quiet. I think it will be very

quiet when I get it in the box with sound surppression.

.

 BTW.. I don't think i'll have too much trouble cooling this

as the fan on the alt moves a lot of air. Maybe more that

the engine fan.

 

 


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Sunday, June 13, 2010 5:12 AM by Eddy Lucast moderator
peterj
 Posted Saturday, February 13, 2010 5:51 AM
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Chapter 5Battries and some electric info..

 

I had 4 rv 12v batts in my shed, I charged them

and tested, two were DOA! The two that were left

I kept in the shed. By time I get to this project,

they were dead. I charged them up again, they

went dead again. lol.  $$$ I bought 2 new 6v golf

cart battries, Deka , GC15. I got golf cart batts

because they last better with long slow discharge

than starting batts.



 

I tested these with my 1000 watt inverter, and

pluged in an electric heater for a load.I ran it for an

hour, switching between 500 w and 1000 w. I tried

1500w a few times but the inverter kicked out. The

inverter is supposed to be 2000 peak, but if I was

running it at 1000 w, and switched to 1500 w load it

lasted 7 sec. If I was running at 500 w and switched

to 1500 w load, it lasted 23 sec. I think I might need

a bigger inverter $$$. After this testing for an hour,

the battries were still good. They only took 1 hr to

recharge with my 10 a charger,(90%) and another

hour to top off (100%).

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Sunday, June 13, 2010 5:10 AM by Eddy Lucast moderator
peterj
 Posted Saturday, February 13, 2010 6:25 AM
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Chapter 5-1More elec

 

The way i'm hooking this up, I can charge these

batts with the small motor or with the truck. Also

I can use the truck batts or the unit batts for the

load, or both. The truck already has a disconnect

in the ground connection. When I get the unit

batts installed they will have a ground disconnect

too.  Then I have a 250a cont/ 2500a intermittent

solenoid to connect the positive of both.

The disconnect for the truck was from flaming river.

The one I bought for the unit was from summit racing,

and they appear to be the same!

The solenoid  was painless wiring, but I bought it

from summit too.

The inverter will have its own switch, as well as a

seperate switch for the 12 v connection to the

jumpers or trailer connection.

 

I got some HD jumper cables from Tractor Supply,

and a connecter from napa. The connector is for

truck tail gates, or other high amp use.

 



 



more later

 


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