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deguitars
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Posted Thursday, June 10, 2010 5:23 PM
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Anybody remember these warning stickers on virtually every Kenworth and Peterbilt? With so much frame stretching going on I was just curious what/how folks deal with it, if at all?
Cheers,
David
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Aaron
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Posted Thursday, June 10, 2010 5:31 PM
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Cut,weld and drill, and keep going, thats just mubo jumbo to cover their but, if the frame were to brake they could blame it on the owner.
I can't get anymore out of it, I've got both sticks hot clear up to the knobs allready.
www.killcarb.org
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Bodacious
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Posted Friday, June 11, 2010 3:53 AM
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Actually if you'll notice, the stickers read "Do not drill flanges." There's no problem with drilling holes in the side of the rails. And as far as welding them goes, no, they should not be welded to because they are heat treated. Welding just at the splice though, as part of the overall modification, including an appropriate length of bolt in rail section is acceptable however.
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Dan Closser
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Posted Friday, June 11, 2010 6:19 AM
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Welding to a frame is still not recommended. However, if you find you need to weld in front of the rear axles, the best practice would be to bolt on a plate or angle to weld onto. Also, if drilling, do not use a scribe to mark the hole: remember, that is the same as scoring glass, the crack will start from the scribe line. When welding as in a splice, the weld needs to be backed up with an insert that is bolted into the frame.
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deguitars
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Posted Friday, June 11, 2010 6:34 AM
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Okay so basically you guys are saying don't worry just drill or weld at your leisure which seems to be what everyone does anyway with stretching, shortening, whatever. Heck, my frame had a bunch of extra holes in it that I've already welded up anyway to no ill effect so far (we're talking about steel here by the way). But why the warning not to drill "flanges" (thanks for the correction) and why not the web? Does anyone know how the rails were supplied to the maker, were they pre-drilled and then heat treated? That doesn't seem likely, so what's the difference in the factory drilling holes or someone down the road doing so? A lot of steel, and aluminum, is heat treated for strength so that's nothing new...it sounds like the warning was more to do with preventing some well intentioned owner from setting up stress points bolting junk onto the frame. Probably a pretty good thing to warn about. As was pointed out, some guy might decide to simply install a bracket and scribe a few lines, drill a few holes, and presto - cracked frame!
Thanks for the tips. Somewhere down the road I might stretch mine a foot or so.
Cheers,
David
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Geoff Weeks
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Posted Friday, June 11, 2010 9:47 AM
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The flanges should not be drilled as they make up all the stiffness. a hole would weaken the frame and a crack would start. The web on the otherhand doesn't need to be solid. Take a look at the frame of any steel flatbed trailer and you'll see they are cut out to make the frame lighter. Haveing said that, I have seen some frames where the front axle shackle bracket does have a bolt going thru the flange from the factory, with no bad results.
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Dan Bruno
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Posted Friday, June 11, 2010 3:15 PM
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JEllingwood
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Posted Sunday, June 13, 2010 3:40 PM
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Let's suppose there is a 3/8" hole in the top flange about 18" behind the cab. What would you do?
Yes I have this issue
John
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Bodacious
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Posted Sunday, June 13, 2010 5:31 PM
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JEllingwood (6/13/2010)
Let's suppose there is a 3/8" hole in the top flange about 18" behind the cab. What would you do?
Yes I have this issue
John
Thankfully it's a small one. I'd put a nut & bolt in it with hardened washers and just keep an eye on it.
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RobBalfour
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Posted Sunday, June 13, 2010 5:37 PM
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JEllingwood (6/13/2010)
Let's suppose there is a 3/8" hole in the top flange about 18" behind the cab. What would you do?
Yes I have this issue
John
You mount a big winch there.:P
Rob Balfour
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