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watson aux in a 1ton


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By supercabfreak - Saturday, October 29, 2011 6:12 PM
hey guys im new to this forum so bear with me till i settle in

i recently purchased a small watson brownie transmission from a little back woods truck yard in NC, this guy has stuff thats been sitting since the mid 50's and things i didnt know existed...... regaurdless the watson is a 39m1 i was wonderign what yal could tell me about the 39m1 and if anyone had any literature on them

im also interested to know what gear ratios im likely to have and where i could get seals and how to replace them .....i know verry little about this tans and i am eager to install it in my 76 1ton

im installing purely to gain a small mpg increase not to mention twin sticking is cool :D

http://forums.aths.org/InstantForum2010/Uploads/Images/2e47d875-6af1-4ce4-a32c-2ca3.jpg
By dashby - Saturday, October 29, 2011 6:39 PM
First--Join ATHS--Best investment for info.

Second--The library in Kansas City has a large book of manuals for the Watson Transmission.  John O'Neal worked for Watson and gave ATHS his master reference manual.

Third--I think some of the folks on here are experienced with these little trannies.  We used to run a few of these in 3014 Whites, but has been too long ago for me to help you.

Dean
By junkmandan - Sunday, October 30, 2011 5:11 AM
You really don't want to be known as freak forever............but welcome to the forum !I thought I'd just be able to refer to a chart Dean posted a year or 2 ago,but it only covers the 41,42,43,47 and 48 Watsons ,as well as 3 6000 series Spicers .

But I do have assembly instructions for the 31,39,31M and 39M ..............plus a parts diagram sheet on these same boxes . At first glance ,I thought these boxes might be underdrive only,as "table X" lists underdrive ratios as 1.48 to 1 on the 31M or 31M1  and 1.92 to 1 on the 39M or 39M1 . However ,"table Y" lists overdrive gear # 22-8-95 on the31M and 39M ,and 22-8-96 OD gear on the 31M1 and 39M1 .    Table X shows 21 teeth on the countershaft gear "A" ,27 teeth on the mainshaft gear "B" on the 31M and 39M ,but I see no reference to the overdrive ratios . It also shows 30 teeth on the mainshaft [input],18 teeth on the the countershaft on the 39M and 39M1.
So it becomes blurry here ............perhaps some of the math majors can figure out the OD ratios. 
Does this mean the 31 series OD ratio is .777  and the 39 series is .6 ?    Help !

You can get seals at any industrial bearing supply house . Various ways to change a seal but common is drill a hole,insert a sheet metal screw ,use a slide hammer or pry bar that fits and pop it out . Don't fix what ain't broke ! By the way Watson recommended the use of SAE 50 engine oil in summer,SAE 30 engine oil for temperature between zero and freezing .

By the way,I have a Spicer 5831 behind a Spicer 3152 5 speed main with short 4th. in my GMC pickup . It will dazzle you when I use 4 low,5 low,4 high and 5 high keeping within 300 RPM in the top 4 gears with my 4 banger .
By wayne graham - Sunday, October 30, 2011 5:11 AM
I like the idea, have often contemplated making a toy like that myself. Knew a guy in California in the seventies did it to a F250 to pull 5th wheel camper. worke real nice as he was retired trucker and knew how to use it. if you think two sticks are cool then you definitely will fit in around here. Like Dean said join us cause it will be the best 42.00 you ever spent and then you can keep us posted on your project. Wayne
By supercabfreak - Sunday, October 30, 2011 7:16 AM
junkmandan do you have a electronic copy of your charts and assembaly diagrams?
By Tony Bullard - Sunday, October 30, 2011 7:45 AM
Dan, Quote "Table X shows 21 teeth on the countershaft gear "A" ,27 teeth on the mainshaft gear "B" on the 31M and ". There should be at least one more gear on the counter shaft (Cluster gear) and one at least on the output shaft.  If it's a under, direct and over box it should have at least two gears on the output shaft and maybe three on the counter shaft. Does it list those gear teeth counts?

Edit: With two shift forks it looks like a three speed. With only one fork you could have direct and either under or over.
By dashby - Sunday, October 30, 2011 11:44 AM
This is Junkman doing his stuff at the Hutchinson Show.http://forums.aths.org/InstantForum2010/Uploads/Images/bd607c2e-0bd8-4ab8-aa6c-d192.jpg
By TEWHITEIV - Sunday, October 30, 2011 3:03 PM
Supercabfreak, you're gonna love driving that when you get through.  Dad had one he ran in all of his 1-tons, deep under, direct, and over.  Kept his speedometer cable on the main trans.  At 60 mph shift from direct to over and the speedometer would drop to 45 mph.  Ran it behind standards and automatics.  Shifting behind an automatic required a little more skill, but was easier if the automatic was locked in a lower gear and the engine rpm's were higher.

Dad put a Gear Vendor direct-over behind a 6 speed in his F-550 pickup, electric power shift, but wasn't near the fun the brownie was behind a 4 speed.
By junkmandan - Sunday, October 30, 2011 4:24 PM
Supercab-----I'm not smart enough to transmit the 2 pages electronically .............but send me a PM with your real name and address and I'll put it in the mail. 

Tony---I first thought it might be just an underdrive unit but saw the 2 shift rails ,so I knew it was a 3 speed box . And yes there are 3 gears  on both the main and the countershaft .Looking at it closer than I did earlier ,I see the input gear on the mainshaft is 20 teeth,the one in constant mesh below it is  23 teeth .
By Bruce Ohnstad - Sunday, October 30, 2011 5:32 PM
I'd love one in my F 350, but there's not much clearance after putting it in, and driveline angles can be tricky. 

If you mark each yoke and the case at top dead center, then look at the output shaft like a clock with twelve "pie pieces."  Spin exactly one turn on the input, write down how much the output turns.  You'll be able to figure out your ratios very close.  For example, in overdrive, if the output turns to "11 o'clock" that makes 11/12= .92 overdrive.  "10 o'clock" means 10/12= .83 overdrive.

If that has a fast overdrive, it might lug the engine under a heavy load instead of splitting a shift.  But good luck, I'd really be tempted if I had one.

Bruce
By edpruss - Monday, October 31, 2011 5:56 AM
Apparently Watsons came in sizes, had some, no numbers, weren't nearly a big as a 5831 for example, some might be too small for todays engines and loads?  Stude V8 wore one out going home from Hutch.
By TEWHITEIV - Monday, October 31, 2011 10:16 AM
For a toy, if you stay in direct most of the time, especially hard pulls, then your just torqueing the top shaft, which is designed for a pretty good load considering it goes behind the primary transmission.  In other words, if the watson was designed to be abused behind a 150 hp engine in 1st and 2nd gear, then you are not going to break it behind a 300 hp engine if you only chow down on it in the higher gears.  But if you are pulling long grades with high hp. in anything other than direct, then you are putting the power and heat through the whole trans and can get a bearing.  Dad ran his behind Big Block Chevy's, but never was really working more than 200  hp. through it for any length of time.  I remember him putting bearings in it about 3 times in 2 decades.  Anytime it starts sounding like something isn't right in it, put it in direct and keep it there until you get where you are going.

Auxillarys aren't built like transmissions, they are built stout like rearends, because they have to take the multiplied torque from the front trans just like the rearend would if the aux. wasn't there.  As you get the front trans into the higher gears, then the aux. starts taking the input torque that a regular trans would.
By supercabfreak - Saturday, November 05, 2011 3:02 PM
hey guys the watson i have will be used for spliting my current gears when im loaded ...basicly just slow in-town stuff.  twice a year i make a 100 mile round trip on the interstate to sell some cattle. i do not intend on running long trips with large loads, for every mile i run loaded i drive 200 empty.

also! does this aux i have use the old school rope seals? and can i convert to the neoprene seals like in a axil hub? ive heard horrer stories of not being able to get the rope seals to stop leaking even after replaceing them

the truck is a 76 F350 supercab with a stock 360 FE and a NP435 trans it has a dana 70 axil with 4:10 gears and 32 inch tires does anyone see a problem with the watson added to this setup?
By dashby - Saturday, November 05, 2011 7:48 PM
Rope seals ??  We ran B/L's with just screw back slingers--no seals at all.  Rear up winch truck and oil would leak out.

http://forums.aths.org/InstantForum2010/Uploads/Images/57a27e70-0b24-45b2-85ec-b31b.jpgDean
By supercabfreak - Thursday, November 17, 2011 3:36 PM
hey guys im no closer to installing my aux than last time i posted but i was brain-storming yesterday was was thinking about drive shafts

i talked to a local drive shaft shop a couple weeks ago and the fellow there told me i needed at least 12" of shaft between the 2 trans. is that nessisary in my application? i was hopeing to get away with adding a U-joint style CV joint between them as to keep my drivetrain as short as posible, future intentions are to add a divorced t-case behinde it later

thoughts comments?
By Park Olson - Thursday, November 17, 2011 4:20 PM
If you have transfer case behind the aux., how long will the front shaft be?
By supercabfreak - Thursday, November 17, 2011 4:32 PM
im not sure but the aux is plus or minus 2-3 of what the factory ford trans-tcase shaft is..........sooo my front drive shaft will be close to the factory length. if i have to add a peice of shaft between each trans and tcase 4x4 is out of the question it would be way too long.

id love to mount the watson yoke to yoke but that isnt practicle and could couse some major problems adding a CV will allow for any error in alighnment and elevation when mounting the box
By TEWHITEIV - Thursday, November 17, 2011 4:56 PM
J.J. Finley in Texas has a 4 door International pickup that has a 6 cylinder Hercules multi-fuel engine, 4 speed main, 3 speed aux., and 4x4 transfer case.  The drive shaft to the front axle has a swing bearing.  The truck also has a PTO winch on the front.  David McNeil may know more about it or have a photo of it.
By Wolfcreek_Steve - Thursday, November 17, 2011 6:39 PM
supercabfreak (11/17/2011)
if i have to add a peice of shaft between each trans and tcase 4x4 is out of the question it would be way too long.

id love to mount the watson yoke to yoke but that isnt practicle and could couse some major problems adding a CV will allow for any error in alighnment and elevation when mounting the box


Would it be possible to add a carrier bearing to your front drive shaft? I've never seen it done, but it works on a rear shaft.

I've seen my dad cut a drive shaft apart, leaving about 2" of tube on one u-joint, then remove the tube from the other u-joint. press the 2 together and weld it up. This was used to power a front mounted hydraulic pump on a farm tractor, so I really don't see a need for 12" of driveshaft between stationary components. You would need some sort of a slip joint.
By dashby - Thursday, November 17, 2011 8:16 PM
We have seen (have one now) a close coupled joint assembly.  Just a U joint/short spline/U joint--no drive tube.  Down side=have to pull 2 transimissions to do clutch work.

We used to run these in short wheel base winch trucks.

Dean

http://forums.aths.org/InstantForum2010/Uploads/Images/49e6b2d1-d045-47fe-bfb7-3f7c.jpg
By junkmandan - Friday, November 18, 2011 5:27 AM
I have a friend in Geneva,OH. that has a 5831 Spicer in the rear driveline of a 76 CHEV 4x4 pickup with 8' box .Use overdrive in 2WD only,If you need 4X4 go back to direct , The Spicer is 18" long yoke to yoke .
By Richard - Friday, November 18, 2011 7:33 AM
I put a Gear Vendor OD in a 1997 Dodge/Cummins 4x4 some years ago.  It had a switch that when installed, would not permit  4wd  and OD to be engaged at the same time.  I never got around to installing it!!! Hope the new owner remembers that.
By junkmandan - Saturday, November 19, 2011 4:29 AM
Mitch----Watson info is in the mail ,per request .
By supercabfreak - Saturday, November 19, 2011 4:57 PM
thanks dan i reealy apreciate it!! ...........i cant find anyone or any place other than here that has or knows anything about the watson
By Tony Bullard - Sunday, November 20, 2011 1:51 AM
Supper, when you get the info from Dan could you scan it and attach it here for us to put on file?

Thanks, Tony
By supercabfreak - Sunday, November 20, 2011 2:22 PM
no problem, and will do!!  if anyone knows of anything about the watson 39 m1  id love to learn about it.....can realy learn too much about the vehicle you work on and drive.
By supercabfreak - Monday, November 21, 2011 4:20 PM
hey guys i just got the papers dan sent me, and dad i cant tell you how much i apreciate you sending them to me.

what did these copies come from? a service manual? and where could i find stuff like this for my watson?

these will come in verry handy when i attempt to "rebuild" my aux unit

this is what dan sent me i did my best to scan and upload it here in good quality



By junkmandan - Monday, November 21, 2011 4:39 PM
Mitch-----Don't fix what ain't broke !   Install it and if a seal leaks change the seal,or both seals because the seals and bearings are about the only things you're likely to find . In the note to you I indicated I received the info from a descendent of the HS Watson Co . in California back in 1978 .
By supercabfreak - Monday, November 21, 2011 5:20 PM
i intend to replace the seals before i mount it in the truck it leaked oil out both ends on the drive home in the truck bed..... bearings seem ok i washed it out with kerosine and got most of the gunk out although there is still alot in places i cant reach with a parts cleaning brush

il keep yall posted with progress as i al able to work on it, im in the process of getting the engine back in the truck after a rebuild

also! does anyone see a problem useing one of these to mate the 2 transmissions?

By Wolfcreek_Steve - Monday, November 21, 2011 5:35 PM
I think the double cardan joint will work, but be very careful to get everything lined up properly, (correct angles) and you will need a slip joint. (splines on the tailshaft of your main trans?)
By Tony Bullard - Tuesday, November 22, 2011 2:23 AM
supercabfreak (11/21/2011)
i intend to replace the seals before i mount it in the truck it leaked oil out both ends on the drive home in the truck bed..... bearings seem ok i washed it out with kerosine and got most of the gunk out although there is still alot in places i cant reach with a parts cleaning brush

il keep yall posted with progress as i al able to work on it, im in the process of getting the engine back in the truck after a rebuild

also! does anyone see a problem useing one of these to mate the 2 transmissions?



Like Steve said you'll need a slip joint like this. What size are your drive flanges or yokes. I may have the parts you need.

By supercabfreak - Tuesday, November 22, 2011 6:19 PM
the aux and my truck are both set up with 1350's il take a copy of the picture above to the local drive shaft shop and have one made up .....i beleive the yoke on my NP435 is fixed yoke all the slip is in the shaft on the truck
By burnin oil - Wednesday, November 23, 2011 10:45 AM
They will probably know that shaft as a jack shaft.  If not tell them like the shaft that couples a tandem axle together and they should be able to hook ya up pretty easily.  If you really want to have fun follow this link and give them the part numbers.  You should be able to get the whole assembly under 12"s as you only need a small stub shaft and not a traditional long travel joint.  http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/depdf.aspx?group=J300-P

Another option is get a bent driveshaft at the boneyard and have them retube it to the minimal length.  This option will probably be under $50.
By Tony Bullard - Thursday, November 24, 2011 6:33 AM
Supper maybe you could show the attached slip yoke and yoke shaft info to your drive shaft shop and have them match them up with your existing yokes.

http://forums.aths.org/InstantForum2010/Uploads/Images/2e47d875-6af1-4ce4-a32c-2ca3.jpg
By supercabfreak - Monday, November 28, 2011 2:16 PM
may be a dumb question but why do i need slip between the two transmissions?, im not questioning the fact that i need it...... i just dont understand why? my drive shaft doesnt have any between the carier bearing and the transmission yoke. the only slip i have is between the carier bearing and the rear pumpkin.

also the nice thing about my aux is it already has 1350 u-joints ......no fiddleing to do there :cool:
By mark h - Monday, November 28, 2011 3:35 PM
There are a number of reasons. Here are some. Chassis flex would kill the ujnts, yokes & trans bearings. Installation purpose, you would have to install everything starting from one end to the other & would have to pull the engine or remove the rear shaft, the carrier bearing shaft, aux box, int. shaft, then the main trans, just to do a clutch. With a slip yoke (jackshaft) just remove it then pull the main trans. The carrier bearing is mounted in rubber to give it some movement, if it was solid such as a pillow block bearing it would not last long & would also need a slip yoke. Hope this helps some.

mark h
By supercabfreak - Monday, November 28, 2011 4:14 PM
makes sence now how much slip do i need minimum? 1/4-1/2 inch just to prevent binding?
By junkmandan - Monday, November 28, 2011 4:31 PM
You'd be surprised how much fore and aft movement of the engine and trans.when letting out the clutch due to engine torque .In fact some models of GMCs had a torque rod from the transmission to a frame crossmember to keep from jumping with a heavy load ,especially in reverse . I believe the factory close coupled slip joints as Tony pictured probably allow an inch of movement ,or more .
By mark h - Monday, November 28, 2011 4:44 PM
Usually the slip yoke is placed in the center of its travel. But where your using it for a jackshaft, you really only need to make it long enough to collapse to clear the trans yokes for removal/install. Make sure its also a little longer than the main trans input shaft so the aux box doesn't need to be removed to do a clutch.

mark h
By edpruss - Tuesday, November 29, 2011 8:05 AM
The nice thing about the use of a 'jack shaft,' or whatever the 'official' name is, one can easily adapt it to a companion flange, or another like type but different size yoke with simple lathe and Bridgeport or even a drill press work.
By supercabfreak - Friday, January 27, 2012 4:29 PM
hey guys its been a while but im finaly back with an update  looks liek my ratios are 2:1 1:1 and  idk the exact ration of the overdrive but if you spin the input 4 times the output spins exactly 5-1/4 times

i also removed the input and output houseings and found a seized bearing in the input houseing and a helical groove in the area where the yokes mate  im wonderign what type of seal this is and how the hell im suposed to keep the oil in and dirt out

P.S. there isnt enough metal in the houseigns to have them machined to fit neoprene seals
By Geoff Weeks - Friday, January 27, 2012 5:32 PM
There is no "seal" but the screw threads keep "pumping" any oil back into the trans.
By Tony Bullard - Saturday, January 28, 2012 1:16 AM
supercabfreak (1/27/2012)
hey guys its been a while but im finaly back with an update  looks liek my ratios are 2:1 1:1 and  idk the exact ration of the overdrive but if you spin the input 4 times the output spins exactly 5-1/4 times

i also removed the input and output houseings and found a seized bearing in the input houseing and a helical groove in the area where the yokes mate  im wonderign what type of seal this is and how the hell im suposed to keep the oil in and dirt out

P.S. there isnt enough metal in the houseigns to have them machined to fit neoprene seals


The overdrive ratio is 4 / 5.25 = .7619 or output is 1.3125 X input. That's a nice high OD.
By supercabfreak - Saturday, January 28, 2012 5:06 AM
Geoff Weeks (1/27/2012)
There is no "seal" but the screw threads keep "pumping" any oil back into the trans.


wow.. this thing is gonna be a nastey beast under my truck  is there anyway to add a modern seal to it? maybe a tailshaft out of a different trans would fit?  and what keeps dirt out

also are these threads affective at retaining the oil? and what kind of tolerance should the yoke and tail houseings have ?
By Geoff Weeks - Saturday, January 28, 2012 5:10 AM
A lot of transmission used that over the years, as long as they are run in the correct direction it works.
By glenn akers - Saturday, January 28, 2012 7:45 AM
All roadranger and now the eaton name trans use it on the front input shaft.You want have any problems if your have a good brg and shaft.
By supercabfreak - Saturday, January 28, 2012 2:07 PM
how hard is it to make the oil run out the back if i park on a steep hill?
By tundra - Saturday, January 28, 2012 9:44 PM
if ya plan on parkin somewhere so steep that yer worried bought leakage.......ya probly gonna need more help thanna seal replacement
By Tony Bullard - Sunday, January 29, 2012 1:34 AM
supercabfreak (1/28/2012)
how hard is it to make the oil run out the back if i park on a steep hill?


Draw a line from the filler plug to the bottom of the output shaft. That is the steepest angle you can get away with. It's pretty steep. I assume the plug is in the center about less than half way up.
By supercabfreak - Sunday, January 29, 2012 10:42 AM
ok guys here another update ive been washing the internals with kerosine to get the filth out ( long process)  i finaly gave in and submerged the entire transmission in it over night a couple weeks ago and it seemed to do the trick

heres a picture of the gears on the mainshaft



input shaft and input main bearing



output shaft and output main bearing spedometer gear shown



heres the inside of the input houseing theres a bearing thats pressed into the bottom of this that was frozen up/ filled with filth, rust, and sludge that the kerosine baths didnt remove.





heres a picture of the oil slingers weve been discussing the one in the input houseing was full of gunk



i under stand they work but i dont understand the concept of how it works just being a groove .....if it were a raised thread i could see it working better.....
By Wolfcreek_Steve - Sunday, January 29, 2012 11:29 AM
Think of it this way, any oil/grease that gets in between the shaft/housing will fall into the groove. any contact between the grease and the spinning shaft, will force the grease along the groove which in turn sends the grease back into the main housing. Also the spinning gears act as a slinger so there really isn't much grease in that area to start with.

"If it were a raised thread i could see it working better....." Think of it as a raised thread with a wide crest at the ID. Hope this helps.
By supercabfreak - Sunday, January 29, 2012 2:01 PM
i see now ... anyone have any idea how old this peice is? im guesing late 40's-mid 50's  haha it was an antique before my truck was even built.
By Wayne64SS - Friday, February 03, 2012 2:48 AM
This thread is awesome. As a future brownie 5831B owner I'm going to be in the same boat here shortly. Hopefully on a couple seals and a truck long enough to put 'er in and i'll be all set! 

Keep this thread going and definitely post pics when you install it. This is all great info and very helpful.
By burnin oil - Friday, February 03, 2012 6:19 AM
I believe a 5831 has normal seals.  I know a 7041 does.
By Wayne64SS - Friday, February 03, 2012 8:23 AM
Yea it should, I'd have to look. I have all the reference manuals and parts manuals etc at home thanks to our friendly librarian Dan. 
By Tony Bullard - Saturday, February 04, 2012 2:01 AM
burnin oil (2/3/2012)
I believe a 5831 has normal seals.  I know a 7041 does.


You're right. Attached is the 7041 parts manual.
By supercabfreak - Saturday, February 04, 2012 4:06 PM
hey guys i scored a 3 speed shifter the other day from the guy i first found my aux at. ive cleaned it up and painted it, im gonna try to get it installed in the truck tomorow il be shure to take lots of pictures

finding a shifter if hader than one would think but they seem to go to the crusher with the truck, while the boxes are thrown into old school busses in the yards

also i would like to mount it with some sort of rubber mount as to avoid chassi vibrations and noise any sugestions?
By chocko - Saturday, February 04, 2012 4:26 PM
I think it was Dean Ashby that posted a site where new aux. shifters are avaible.I think could use a floor mount shifter conversion from Hurst or Sparkomatic with some rod extensions. Joe D.
By dashby - Saturday, February 04, 2012 6:49 PM
A Spicer distributor can order the shifter for the Brownies.  They won't stock it and it is a little spendy.  Rick Knox posted the best price--probably gets a good shop discount thru Gully Transp.

Other shifters may work, but be sure they have enough travel to complete the shift and enough leverage also.

Dean
By Freightrain - Wednesday, February 08, 2012 10:34 AM
After getting the aux and shifter put in my Mack, it isn't that difficult.

My mount:



Shifter:



I think you won't have much issue with vibration, as the clevis ends on the shift rods will take up some of the vibration before it gets to the shifter itself.  Mine works slicker then snot.
By Richard - Wednesday, February 08, 2012 1:33 PM
A few years ago, I put a lightweight 3 speed aux. trans in  a 1970 Dodge 1 ton with a 4 speed. I did as Joe D suggests, bought a conversion kit for converting column shifts to floor --guess you can still get them. Worked OK for me.
By edpruss - Friday, February 10, 2012 6:02 AM
Neoprene engine mounts, or pieces of Neoprene snowplow blade work fine for the vibration issues.  Several larger Brownies I have look like some kind of factory vibr. mounts came with them-nice rubber mounts w/ large, flat washers to spread the load.
By supercabfreak - Friday, February 10, 2012 8:28 AM
hey guys i got the shifter buttoned up yesturday, i drilled into the main trans tailhouseing and used a bottoming tap to tap out the holes heres how it looks under the floor pan

By Freightrain - Tuesday, February 14, 2012 9:51 AM
Looks good.  I'm guessing the shift rods will be far enough above the u-joint to not get tangled up?  The picture is deceiving.

I made new rods for mine using 3/4" EMT tubing(electrical conduit), with bolts welded in the end for the ends to screw onto.  I used a 3/4" tubing bender to make the proper zig zag.

By supercabfreak - Thursday, February 16, 2012 2:16 PM
Freightrain (2/14/2012)
Looks good.  I'm guessing the shift rods will be far enough above the u-joint to not get tangled up?  The picture is deceiving.


yes the picture is quite bad but in actuality the shift rods are 6 inches or so above and a lil to the left of the drive shaft, il also have fairly strait linkages with just a 3 inch drop or so to make it line up and pull and push straight with the box without binding
By supercabfreak - Wednesday, February 29, 2012 3:43 PM
huys here with a bit of an update my truck will be going under the knife within the month and the only thing i dont have sorted out is a spedo cable i dout the factory ford one is long enough to reach and the spedo drive is completely different. any ideas?
By junkmandan - Thursday, March 01, 2012 1:02 AM
Without going back through 7 pages to see if you posted a picture of your speedo drive in the auxilliary,show us what it looks like .
By burnin oil - Thursday, March 01, 2012 3:44 AM
Two options. I bet the threaded portion that hooks to the trans is the same as they were semi universal with the big difference on the speedo head (clip vs threaded)

#1. Pull the cable and take it down to NAPA and get one that is longer.

#2. Go to a junkyard and see what you can find.

I have seen an adapter before that let you put an extension onto anather cable.
By Geoff Weeks - Saturday, March 03, 2012 2:15 AM
There are still places that make up speedo cables. They need to know what ends you have (take them with if possable) and how long, and which direction it turns.

Ask at a heavy truck parts supplier, they migh know of one in your area. I know of one in Omaha, and Chicago, but neither are near you.
By Tony Bullard - Saturday, March 03, 2012 6:15 AM
Here's a site that makes up custom cables and ratio adaptors. I had one made up for the Acar and they did a real good job cheep.

http://www.gaugeguys.com/index.html
By supercabfreak - Monday, October 15, 2012 12:57 PM
hey guys its been a long time ive stopped in to post anything but im ecited to say i finally have al the micalanious items holding up my project aquired and ready to go. i hope to get the aux in the truck this weekend and be driveing it by monday morning.

p.s. is anyone attending the aths show in NC on november 3rd?
By Four Paws - Tuesday, November 13, 2012 4:57 PM
Did you get your Watson mounted in your truck? If so, how do you like it?
By supercabfreak - Sunday, November 25, 2012 8:09 AM
its still a work in progress ive welded up the mounts and drilled the frame but i havnt had time to work on it over the thanksgiveing holiday il be shure to post back with news as things progress
By supercabfreak - Wednesday, December 26, 2012 6:12 AM
hey guys i finaly got my watson mounted in the truck and have been driveing it a couple days now. il get some pictures when it isnt raining. im also curious as to what oil i should be running in it it is verry loud in under and over (not bad sounding just loud)
By andyg - Wednesday, December 26, 2012 4:15 PM
Thanks for the update. I have an old 1 ton that I would like to do this with also. Often, these older gearboxes use 90wt gear lube. Just make sure that it has something even if it is 30wt.
By Geoff Weeks - Thursday, December 27, 2012 3:35 AM
No transmission requres "gear lube", some can tollerate it some can not. When in doubt, you are fairly safe with SAE 40 or 50 engine oil. A few transmissions require 10W-40 and in cars ATF is common now. SAE 40 has the same viscosity is 80 GL, SAE 50 is the same as 90 GL. (SAE 30 = 75 GL).

If at all possable try and find what the MFG recomends.
By Wayne64SS - Thursday, December 27, 2012 5:27 AM
My 5831b takes sae50.