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low air warnig buzzer location in a 1986 International 9670 cabover


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By Caboverman - Saturday, January 30, 2010 2:04 AM
 I'm looking to find out where the low air warning buzzer is,or under which dash panel it's located,and possibly what it looks like.

 Now I know these questions sound"simple"but,I must not have one,as I have been in the dash looking all over for it,and cannot.

 My guess is that it is a simple black plastic round looking thing,but I may be wrong.I just don't think there is one on my truck at this time,as it MAY have been removed for some unknown reason.

 Hopefully there is someone out there familiar with this dash configuration,and can help me locate it.I bought this truck used with 97,000 miles on it,and it has some "bugs"but very minor ones.Some of the plastic was still on the sleeper roof,and the interior is in perfect condition,as is the cab exterior with some minor buffing flaws

Thanks to all!!

By John_Costley - Saturday, January 30, 2010 2:49 AM
What make, model, and year of truck is it ?.John
By Geoff Weeks - Saturday, January 30, 2010 3:39 AM
The buzzer is on the back of the switch panel... remove the screws and pull the whole panel out. it plugs into the black plastic that makes up the pack of this assembly. it is a a little round device... The horn relay is also plugged into the back but it is rectanglular. The buzzer will be near the center (rear) and had two prongs, 180 deg apart from eachother... it is about the size of a 1/2 dollar coin, while the horn relay will be on the lower right (looking from the front)
By Geoff Weeks - Saturday, January 30, 2010 3:41 AM
Forgot to add... If you need to find the low air switch... it is under the drivers floor, pull the mat and then the sub-floor and it will stare you in the face!
By Caboverman - Sunday, January 31, 2010 6:57 AM
Hi John,

 Yeah,that would be a good thing to have entered...It's a 1986 International 9670 doublebunk cabover Eagle that I would like to find the low air warning buzzer on.Thanks

Don

By Caboverman - Sunday, January 31, 2010 7:02 AM
Thanks Geoff,

 I saw the round black thing on the back of the switch panel,and will investigate the directions you've given!!

Thanks again!!

Sincerely,

 Don

By Geoff Weeks - Sunday, January 31, 2010 7:35 AM
If you look above the drivers side steer tire, you will see where a bunch of air lines enter the cab... The top side of this block is where the low-air pressure switch is. It is accessed by removeing the sub-floor from the top. Because it is below the floor, it can have corrosion problems. If you have the light, but no buzzer then it isn't you problem... if you have neither, then look to the switch/wireing to be the problem.
By RobBalfour - Sunday, January 31, 2010 1:33 PM
Yep what Geoff said.:D  My 84 9670 is the same.Being up here in Maine and I used to haul lime with it,I've had that floor up a couple of times.Pretty easy job though.That electrical system in the dash can be a pain in the butt.The printed circuit board in ours always was having problems until we put a Link air ride cab system on then it wasn't quie as bad.Rough rides don't do them any good.We put almost 2 million miles on that truck.still sitting here at the house.
By glenn akers - Sunday, January 31, 2010 1:48 PM
A freind of mine bought 10 ex PAM 9670 tractors. All was in good shape and he only used 8 of them. But the elecrical issues behind the dash or the connectors in the circuit board was the only electrial problems i remember. None had power steering and i install air assist on 8 of them.
By Caboverman - Sunday, January 31, 2010 2:19 PM
THANK YOU!!:-)
By John_Costley - Sunday, January 31, 2010 2:23 PM
Caboverman (1/31/2010)
Hi John,

 Yeah,that would be a good thing to have entered...It's a 1986 International 9670 doublebunk cabover Eagle that I would like to find the low air warning buzzer on.Thanks

Don

Don,

If I had been a little more awake when I read the title of the thread I would have got it,lol.John

By RobBalfour - Sunday, January 31, 2010 6:16 PM
Yep those little connectors in the plugs were a pain.They would kinda sink in from the heat naturally produced. Every once in a while I used to have to pull the bigger plug and take the end of my test light and carefully spread the connector out so that it would make contact.I think  it was for the directionals.Took changing a few flashers before i realized that wasn't the problem.Those little rectangular breakers would go bad too just from the heat in the dash.
By Geoff Weeks - Monday, February 01, 2010 12:38 PM
The cabover I cut up for parts (it had already been cut in 1/2 before I got it) had bags with replacement plugs and I bought replacement contacts for the plugs. Also someone gave me a new switch panel and several switchs.

   While I think IHC would have done better not to try and make everything "plug in" I don't feel the wireing is that bad. Once you know about the problem, and stock replacement parts (cheap) and replace when they act up (once the contacts get hot, they lose their "springyness" and should be replaced).

   To me, the door lock issues are a bigger PITA then the electical systems weak points. As of yet, I haven't come up with a good solution to the door lock issue. You can replace the lock assembley and the new one will start to fail almost right away. Right now, the passenger door will not open from inside or out. I've replaced the driver side more then once. Once they fail it is hard to get in and get the latch to release. I intend to take a hard look at the latch issue and see if there isn't some way to make it better.

   BTW Caboverman, did you find the problem?

By RobBalfour - Friday, February 05, 2010 11:29 AM
This is going to be a believe it or not answer.:P On our 9670,the doors gave us fits trying to get into and out of it. Dad and I ran into a guy that had a sister truck to us and we got talking about it. He said,"If you put your thumb right in the center of the insignia on the outside door handle and use it as a fulcrum to pull out and up with your fingers under the latch it will work." We kinda chuckled but we both tried it when we went out to the truck.It worked like a charm!!Never had a problem getting in after that and I have showed that to 3 or 4 other guys and it worked with theirs too.If your thumb is sore,hook both thumbs into the latch and out all your fingers on the insignia and pull the latch out and up the same way.As far as getting out,we used to have to pull on the door handle and  pull the door in toward you at the same time.Worked probably 98% of the time and always by the third pull.May or may not work for you but always did for us.:P

As far as the electrical,ya it was a pretty cheap and easy fix.I used to carry a bag of plugs and connectors etc too.Just a pain when you're in brooklyn with a load of lumber and you realize"Hmm,no directionals". Not that anybody really pays attention to them there anyway.

By Geoff Weeks - Friday, February 05, 2010 2:47 PM
Yeah I know about the push&pull and the two handed open... But if you pull the lock mechanism on the inside of the door, you will find the problem. They use rod that passes thru a slot and is supposed to trip the latch... once either the rod or slot wears it gets hard to open.

  All in all I think they are a fine truck. Not fancy, but with a minimum of maintance will make you money.

By Eddy Lucast - Saturday, February 06, 2010 2:07 AM
They use rod that passes thru a slot and is supposed to trip the latch... once either the rod or slot wears it gets hard to open.

sounds like a job for a nylon bushing

By Geoff Weeks - Saturday, February 06, 2010 6:42 AM
Eddy,

  It is kinda hard to explain... But it works by putting side force on the rod as it passes thru the lock.. when either the rod or the lock wears it stops working... a bushing would only make it worse. I can not explain in words but it is a bad design... easy and cheap to make, but not a good design for long life.  I have looked at it several times and haven't come up with an easy fix. I am sure there is a fix... I just haven't thought of it yet.  

   I'm think along the lines of increaseing the thickness of the rod and doubleing the part that runs thru the lock. It may disable the lock... so not sure if it can be done and keep the locking portion.

   MY 9670 is off the road right now... and it would be a good time to play with it.. Unfortuneately keeping one truck on the road and properly maintained keeps me busy enough.. Trucking is a job, and I don't want it to take up more of my time then it already does.

   I think if a good solution is found, it will be welcomed by the IHC owners, as IHC used the same lock on many models and many years.

By Caboverman - Sunday, April 22, 2012 11:22 AM
Thank you for your reply!!I found it and fixed it.I have since sold it,and recently bought an '87 9670 Eagle w/the same problem.I worked on it all day yesterday to get the driver door latch to open,but it still doesn't work.I am taking it to Arkel Motors this week to let them fix it and some other things.I'll see what THAT will cost,but the truck for me needs to be 100%.I'm going to the national show in Massachusettes in May/June of this year,so hopefully it's little issues will be fixed.

Thanks again for your help!!

Sincerely,

Don
By Geoff Weeks - Sunday, April 22, 2012 1:29 PM
Ya, your like me, I bought an '82 9670 that I just couldn't pass up. I have two to get on the road now. The '82 is closer to being done then my'89.